Brunch Braised Eggs

*Just Braise has moved. Please visit me at www.justbraise.com!*

Happy Daylight Savings Day if you live in the US in one of those cities that enjoy torturing inhabitants’ internal clocks with bi-yearly time changes. I am embracing bags under the eyes today to push through the pain. Remember to go to your computer maker's homepage and download the necessary plug in to update your operating system.

Thank you to everyone who participated in the last giveaway. As more suppliers come to me offering samples I will attempt to make them available to you so keep posted! Another offer coming up shortly…

Some of you may have noticed that JustBraise.com appears different than the current Blogspot site you are reading. I am working with a brilliant designer now to modernize, slim down and in general make clear what I can offer you. I am not fully aware of the final vision, but please be patient in the future if either site experiences loading problems or content is missing. I promise it will not last too long.

All that being said… brunch!

Here in NYC, yesterday blessed us with a hint of Spring. I took a short walk outside to enjoy the mild weather and even went so far as to open a window to let a refreshing breeze pass through (read: to cool the kitchen). Spring weather in NYC reminds me of brunch. Seemingly every New Yorkers' favorite weekend pastime when the weather finally reaches mild temperatures, outdoor seating emerges to take the place. Sidewalks are no longer crowded with bushy jackets but chairs overflowing with revelers of their leisurely 2pm brunching hour.

In the suburbs and many other cities, I seem to recall brunch falling around 10 or 11 am. For whatever reason, in New York City, the later you are able to make it to brunch the more it says “I don’t care, I am spending today drinking bloody marys.” For whatever reason, if your time is being spent brunching, your waste of a day is perfectly justified (it also says, “that’s right, I was at the secret after hours location until 6am, pssshhhh.”). One will often find brunch menus extend well past 4pm, overlapping with those early bird dinner specials.

In honor of brunch, my slightly early awakening this morning and the change of the season, I present this decadent dish. Soon it will be too warm to enjoy such a luxury— When a hot breakfast is about as appealing as that industrial air conditioner’s exhaust hitting your face on a 90 degree day in what seems to be 100% humidity and the soles of your shoes are melting and the buildings around you create a fabulously effective canyon for retaining heat and you become increasingly bitter at those who were smart enough (or simply have the means and schedule) to flee the City for the duration of the summer and bask in the cool waves of the ocean. No bitterness, I have my bucket garden to tend to.

On the other hand, this recipe may allow you to forget the beach and the heat of the summer and bask in the rich joys of winter.

BRUNCH BRAISED EGGS
Serving Size= 2. Active time= about 8 minutes. Cook time= about 10 minutes.
* 1-2 tablespoons butter
* 1 bunch spinach, washed well and drained
* ½ cup heavy cream or milk
* 2 tablespoons ricotta cheese
* 1 tablespoon parmesan
* 2 tablespoons cognac or brandy
* salt/ pepper
* 2 eggs

1) Preheat oven to 400F. In a large sauce pan on medium high heat, melt the butter. Once bubbling, add the spinach, cover and allow to wilt, about 3 minutes. Stir to bring wilted leaves to the top and complete wilting.
2) Add cream, ricotta, parmesan, salt and pepper. Bring just to a simmer, stirring often, about 2 minutes. Add cognac and return to simmer. Taste the broth and add more salt/ pepper if needed.
3) Divide the spinach and cream mixture between two oven safe bowls, reserving about 2 tablespoons of the cream-cognac mixture. Crack an egg over the top and add the remaining cream-cognac sauce.
4) Place the bowls on a cookie sheet for easy removal. Bake for 10 minutes, or until whites just set for runny yolks, longer for firmer yolks.
5) Serve warm with buttery toasted bread.

Asian Inspired Beef Braise

I know it’s a little vague to use the term “Asian Inspired” when describing this, or any, dish. Possibly Asian fusion works better, or simply, fusion braise (to go along with all the fusion restaurants we have these days).

For a few weeks now, D has been eyeing the 4-inch thick cuts of beef chuck at the butcher. They called out meat-protein overload to him, so when I finally okayed the purchase he was in heaven. As we headed next door to the vegetable stand and D picked out a few potatoes for the braise, he eyed me warily as I bagged up chestnuts and shiitake mushrooms. More than once I was told not to “ruin” his beef.

Last summer I was in China finishing up a Masters degree. Between tastings of dehydrated “rope” pork, emperor banquets of delicately crafted dim sum, ogling beetles and snakes on a stick and falling in love with the velvety sweet pulp of mangosteens, I became enthralled by the vibrant offerings of vegetables. Each dish was a still life: Broccoli was reshaped into flowering blossoms, mushrooms became lotus roots and lotus roots became dragon scales. I was constantly amazed by the care that was put into presentation, regardless of the establishment.

It was in these dishes that I came to re-appreciate the texture and versatility of the shiitake mushroom, amazed how it holds up in cooking. And it was here that I learned to love the chestnut-- popping up to add a rich flavor and thick creaminess to dishes I hadn’t known before. Used sparingly, mostly as a holiday embellishment (accordingly with their season), I don’t think the chestnut receives its fair exposure.

This dish is in some ways a remembrance of China, but more so, a way to incorporate the ingredients I came to appreciate in a succulent braise. We ate the braise bare at first and on the second and third day cracked an egg on top and enjoyed it baked. The egg adds another wonderful depth of texture and fabulous richness once the yolk is broken. And those little potatoes D gathered for the braise? Perfect for sopping all the juices up.

ASIAN INSPIRED BEEF BRAISE
Serves 6 persons. Active time= 20 minutes. Inactive time= 3-½ hours (depending on thickness of meat).
* 1 pound chestnuts, roasted and shelled
*5-6 pound cut of beef chuck (or other inexpensive cut)
* ½ pound shiitake mushrooms, cut into quarters
* 1 medium onion, sliced (or 2 bunches scallions)
* 3 tablespoons soy sauce
* 1 tablespoon sesame oil
* 1 teaspoon dried chili flakes
* ½ bottle red wine
* water
* ¾-1 pound (small) new potatoes, red or white, left whole

1) Roast the chestnuts before beginning. I apparently did not slice into the shells deep enough and a few exploded in the oven. Preheat oven to 350F. Carefully slice an “x” into the bottom flat nub of the chestnut. Place on a pan and roast for 30 minutes, until shells begin to peel away (or blow up in my case). Allow to cool and remove shells. Place meat aside in a bowl (okay if meat breaks apart).
2) Warm a dutch oven over medium high heat with a 1 tablespoon butter-1 tablespoon olive oil combination. Once warm, rinse off beef and pat dry. Salt and pepper both sides of the beef. Once pot of hot, add beef and brown on all sides, about 4-5 minutes each side. Remove meat from pot, set aside.
3) Add mushrooms, chestnuts and onion to pot. Sauté until onions turn translucent, mushrooms brown and chestnuts break down slightly; about 8 minutes.
4) Add soy sauce, chili flakes and sesame oil, stir to incorporate.
5) Push contents of pot to the sides and replace meat in the pot. Add red wine and enough water to come just below the top edge of the beef (depending on how thick your meat is, you might not need any).
6) Place potatoes around the top, but not in the liquid. Cover tightly, turn heat to low and allow to braise (slow cook) for 3-½-4 hours. Check on the pot once an hour. Turn heat down if liquid is boiling. Add more water if all liquid evaporates out. The dish is done when meat easily falls apart and sauce has thickened.
7) Enjoy warm as is or with a baked egg on top (see below).
8) With baked egg: Preheat oven to 350F. Dish up a portion in an oven safe bowl. Create a small divot and crack egg into the space. Place dish on cookie sheet for easy transport and place on middle rack in oven. For a runny yolk, bake for about 10 minutes, until yolk just begins to form a white covering.

Tags: beef braise, braise, beef, Chinese cooking, baked eggs, comfort food, chestnuts.

Braised Pork Chops w/ Apples

*Just Braise has moved. Please visit me at www.justbraise.com!*

There are few things that complement pork chops as well as apples. Pork chops with applesauce is standard fare. And after years of this mundane preparation, I had essentially sworn off pork chops. It was not until I met D, with his penchant for pork that I began to eat “the other white meat” and truly appreciate it.

Over the years we have worked on our now standard pork chop recipe. Believe it or not, I clamor for it more often that D does these days. No sauce is used, but fresh apples-- All the better while they are in season and abundant. This fall, the recipe has truly reached perfection, braised in cider and rum, the result is sweet, moist meat with a sauce that deserves sopping.

Pork chops are easy to ruin. Overcooking creates dry, gristly meat and is all too common. To braise a pork chop then, is to eradicate the fear of overcooking while providing a savory sauce to accompany your meat.

This is a recipe I discussed previously. When D first made these chops, they were devoured in seconds. Again, D was in charge of the meat and I was happy sous chef to the operation. And again, I dare you not to devour these in seconds.

I think to truly make this dish perfect would be to serve it on top a bed of polenta. This way, all juices can be appreciated and none lost. This dish is a fabulous seasonal dish, so make it post haste.

BRAISED PORK CHOPS W/ APPLES
Serving Size= 2. Active time= about 10 minutes. Braise time= 15 minutes.
* ½ tablespoon unsalted butter
* olive oil
* 2 thick cut pork chops on the bone
* ½ teaspoon cinnamon
* 1 teaspoon cumin powder
* 1 teaspoon coriander powder
* salt/ pepper
* 2 good cooking apples (Granny Smith, Empire, Rome, Courtland), sliced into 16 wedges
* ¾ cup dark rum
* ¼ cup spiced apple cider

1) Preheat oven to 350F.
2) In a deep oven-safe pan (or dutch oven) over high heat, warm butter and olive oil (to barely coat bottom of pan).
3) While pan is warming, prepare the pork chops: Wash and fully dry the meat. Coat evenly on both sides with cinnamon, cumin, coriander, salt and pepper. Carefully place meat in pan and sear both sides until thoroughly browned; about 4 minutes each side. This seals in the pork chop juices and allows you to properly continue the braising. Do not be afraid to really brown the chops in this step.
4) Remove the pork chops from pan and reduce heat to medium. Deglaze by adding rum and scraping bits that have stuck to the pan up and into the rum. Add cider and apples. Braise the apple wedges in the juices until they are limp and have absorbed some juice; about 4 minutes.
5) Return pork chops to pan and move apples around the meat to cover sides and top (some may remain under the chops).
6) Cover pan and place in oven for 10-15 minutes until pork chops are juicy and succulent and liquid has reduced and holds a sweet, thick aroma. Serve with the apples crowing the meat and the sauce all around. Delicious.

Head on over to Sweetnick's for Tuesday's ARF round up!

Check out other Fall Feast-ival items over at WellFed's FitFare!

Tags: pork chops, pork, apples, comfort food, braise, ARF.

Chorizo-Lime BBQ Ribs

*Just Braise has moved. Please visit me at www.justbraise.com!*

Summer brings a new culture onto the streets of New York City. It lives and breathes the pavement and it waits out the humid days for the cooling nights, begging for a release with rain. People move from their cramped apartments onto stoops, lawn chairs, handball courts, public pools, beaches, parks— even an air conditioned store to roam aimlessly for a cool down.

I walked home the other day and witnessed my neighborhood in a new light. Every winter we tightly latch ourselves into our undersized apartments, bundled under blankets and layers of clothing. I begin to forget the people that live in my neighborhood-- that I pass everyday on the streets-- that I ride the train with into Manhattan while we forget where we are and where we are going. As summer’s heat finally hits hard, the close quarters are too much and private life blends into public.

My neighborhood is a multicultural whirlwind of ethnicities and personalities. A perfect microcosm of New York City, I can walk two blocks in one direction to restock my sheesha; two blocks in the other for the best gyro in the City (or the best frappe according to the New York Times). I can go to the Mexican bodega for $1 tamales on the weekends, the Bangladesh deli for a fresh mango smoothie, or the Indian bakery for fresh gulab jaman. The list continues into the night.

But what emerges in the summer holds more than the variety of stores I relish. It is a look into the lives of others. Purple-haired women drink orange soda as their granddaughters regale their waning days of the school year. A group of kids playing soccer in the streets knock their ball too close to a passerby. A mother sits on the stoop as her son practices handball against their brick building. Young girls seek out the icy man for fresh coconut ices. Neighbors rehash old ties, friendly waves cross intersections, the weight of clothing is reduced, it is summertime and the people are happy.

The heat draws people out of their home physically and mentally. Each day I pass the local bargain shop and spy the cheap charcoal grills, waiting for the perfect time to purchase the one-season specialties. Spending time in the kitchen is cut short as the heat of the oven is viewed as sin. Hamburgers, quick chickens, easy seafood and of course, ribs, are easy on the mind because they lend us the notion of lazy-weekend-outdoor-eating with friends and loved ones.

With that said, I justify yet another round of ribs (pork this time)—perfect for a 4th of July BBQ. This one is dripping tangy citrus flavors off the chin with every bite. It is a thick and chunky sauce, loaded with freshness that screams homemade. It is something to impress friends with and all too easy to make. D believes the sauce recipe is too heavy on tomatoes, but I think it sits perfectly on the ribs— with that said, do what you will with the quantity.

CHORIZO-LIME BBQ RIBS
Serving size= 4 people. Active time= 35 minutes. Inactive time= 1 hour 20 minutes
CHORIZO-LIME BBQ RIBS
* 5 pounds pork ribs, have the butcher crack the bone but do not separate the ribs
* Chorizo-Lime BBQ sauce (recipe below)

1) Preheat oven to 400F. While oven is warming, begin to prep sauce ingredients below. Place rack of ribs on a large oven-proof baking sheet with a rim, cover with tinfoil. When oven is ready, place ribs on center rack for 15 minutes.
2) As ribs are baking, finish up the sauce on the stovetop. The sauce should be ready around the same time as the ribs in the first part of the baking process.
3) Remove the sauce from the heat and the ribs from the oven (once the 15 minutes are up). Lower oven temperature to 350F. Remove tinfoil and generously coat the ribs with the sauce. Cover with tinfoil and return to the oven for 1 hour.

CHORIZO-LIME BBQ SAUCE
Serving size= 4 people. Active time= 30 minutes.
* 7 ounces, about 4 chorizo links, diced small
* ½ bunch cilantro, chopped
* 2- 6 ounce cans tomato paste, no salt added
* juice of 3 limes
* 1 cup cider vinegar
* 2 Tbl molasses
* 2 Tbl spicy mustard
* 1 Tbl favorite hot sauce
* ¼ cup water
salt/ pepper to taste

1) In a sauce pan on medium heat, warm the chorizo and cilantro until the cilantro wilts and aromas escape, about 3 minutes.
2) Add remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil then remove from heat. Coat ribs and bake or enjoy as extra dipping sauce on the side.

Head on over to Kalyn's Kitchen to catch this week's WHB roundup!

Soda-Braised Beef

D and I are gearing up for what we are dubbing The Epic Voyage. We leave next week and my mother is a doll to fly in from Chicago (okay, she was already coming for a short visit), but will be extending her stay to care for the cats, my plants and my little City Garden (I don’t think she actually knows the extent of her duties!). As D and I begin to get our trip in order, tie up loose ends, put in extra hours at work, finish open projects—don’t even mention packing—we are trying to clear out some perishables my mother will probably not use, e.g. the dregs of a cola bottle.

While D and I do some last minute scrimping, we figured a good cheap braise was in order. It would clear out our refrigerator and last us through the beginning of next week. So when I told D to just grab “whatever” in the fridge, he pulled out the soda: “Coke?” I thought for a few seconds before, “of course, soda can go in BBQ, marinades, and you can put juices in a braise, so why not soda? Dump it.” D splashed the remains into the pot and took the last swig for himself.

When I was younger, all sodas-- or colas, depending on where you are from, I referred to as, “coke”. My family would go to a restaurant and I would ask: “What kind of cokes do you have?” I received one of two stares: “idiot,” or “smartass.” In the Chicagoland area, “coke” came in diet and regular. I was supposed to ask for soda.

It was not until later that I found out that “coke” as a term for all carbonated beverages really is common. It is mostly used in the south, especially Georgia, where the Coca-Cola Company has their main headquarters. Still later, I found out that in my home state’s almost-neighbor, Ohio, cola was the proper term when discussing carbonated drinks, but they also say crick, begel and ruff (instead of creek, bagel and roof), so I don’t know if it is optimal to use their “cola” term.

Phraseology varies all over this country—don’t even start on the world. It is interesting, whether through travel, or everyday encounters, to find these idiosyncrasies. So as we creep ever closer to Memorial Day and the official start of summer travels, keep an ear out for these cultural flare-ups.

Oh, and the braise was pretty darn good. The sauce was not too sweet with an overall robustness that was quite delicious when paired with the meat. The carrots and celery especially took on the soda very well, turning into sticks of caramelized goodness. The new potatoes were perfect—a last minute decision to purchase these instead of using up some russets we had. Because the new potatoes were left in-tact, they held together nicely, took on the broth and were even better when dipped in a dab of sour cream.

SODA-BRAISED BEEF
Makes 6 servings. Active Time= 20 minutes. Cook Time= 3 hours.
* 6 pounds of beef, left whole (or in 2-3 pieces to fit in pot)
* 3-4 cloves of garlic, crushed
* 2 stalks of celery, cut 1-2 inches in length
* 2 carrots, cut 1-2 inches in length
* 10 white button mushrooms, cut in half
* 10 pearl onions, left whole (or 1 medium onion, sliced into 1 inch cubes)
* 15 new potatoes, washed well and left whole
* 2 cups beef broth (or water and bouillon)
* 2 cups Coca-Cola (Pepsi, Tab, Dr. Pepper or other dark soda)
* salt/ pepper to taste
* 2 bay leaves
* fresh herbs (rosemary, thyme, tarragon, parsley work well)
* 3 Tbl butter or oil

1) In a dutch oven, or other pot with tight fitting lid, warm the butter on medium-high heat. Rinse the beef and pat dry. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add to pot and brown on all sides. Add garlic.
2) Once meat is thoroughly browned, remove from pot and set aside. Add celery, carrots, mushroom, onions and potatoes. Sauté about 8 minutes, until onions are translucent.
3) Return beef to pot, add beef broth, soda, bay leaves and fresh herbs. Cover and bring to a boil. Remember: this is not a stew, it is a braise. Liquids should come just under the top of the beef.
4) Turn heat down to medium-low, leave covered and cook for 2½ - 3 hours, until meat falls apart.
Note: Served with fresh crisp bread or a good salty cheese this makes a great dish.


For all the herb lovers out there Kalyn’s Kitchen hosts WHB. My herbs this week: rosemary, parsley and thyme in this braise.

In non-food related activities we have WCB over at Eat Stuff. I really attempt to capture Kitty BoJangles in action. It is not that it is so rare, but it is true, she is often asleep. Her fun time is what I call her "night crazies." Just after dinner when she bolts the length of the apartment a few dozen times. There is no use getting a shot of her then, because frankly, if you get in her way it is damaging. Instead, I took a picture of her on a box post-night crazies. Shortly after this picture was taken, the box was thrown away. She had grown quite attached because she stared at me viciously as I removed her cooling pad.

And then there is the usual tormentor, Whiskey. He looks very innocent here, be warned, it is all a cute cover.

Braised Beets

I have provided a previous gross out story on beets already. I will not submit it to you again.

The Medusa of the vegetable world, all the beet touches turns to ruby. Demanding center stage on any plate they grace, it is a well-deserved placement. Artistically, beets are a most majestic vegetable. The crimson hue they radiate is astounding. Pulsing with vibrancy, they seem to have a heartbeat you can almost feel.

In culinary terms, they are near to perfection: pairing perfectly with meats, bringing color to any salad, flavorful enough to form a soup and bold enough to stand on their own. You would be hard pressed to find another master of the food world with such flavor and seemingly exotic pizzazz as the beet; yet so humble it is often overlooked.

I am quite content a few noble beets will have the honor to embellish my bucket garden this summer. And as long as I can keep the odd five finger discount on my garden to a minimum, there will be much rejoicing in the weeks to come, with many more beet recipes to follow.

This recipe is deliciously simple. Remember to take care when handling beets as they do stain (so throw on an apron). Orange juice is an ideal pairing with this vegetable for a little bit of tang, further bringing out the beet’s own sweetness.

BRAISED BEETS
Makes: 4 servings. Active Time= 10 minutes. Cook Time= 1 to 1-½ hours.
* 4-5 medium sized beets
* 1 medium onion
* 1-½ cups orange juice
* ½ cup water
* 1 Tbl fresh rosemary; chopped

1) Preheat oven to 400F. Slice both ends off beets and peel skin off. Chop into ¼-inch cubes.
2) Cut onions into ¼-inch cubes. Place onion and beets in an oven safe, non-reactive pan. Add orange juice, water and sprinkle fresh chopped rosemary over top.
3) Bake for 1 hour. Remove beets, stir and test doneness. If not yet soft, return to oven for another ½ hour. This dish can be served warm or cooled and served chilled.

Coq Au Vin

When I was a girl, chicken came in two forms: lightly breaded and grilled. Lightly breaded chicken appeared as chicken Parmesan, chicken Marsala or simply plain. Grilled chicken sometimes joined forces with teriyaki, bread to form a sandwich, or cold on a salad. How quickly chicken can turn boring.

Somehow, I never grew sick of it. But these days I have added to my mother’s repertoire. D loves his fried chicken and we often dish it up this way. Roasted is excellent with a little basil, garlic and pomegranate molasses rubbed on top. But please, somebody bless the French for thinking to add wine to everything!

I must have understood I would come into a love of food. I took my first French class by the second grade—after school sessions taught me numbers, color, hello and goodbye. By sixth grade I was accompanying my family to Paris. While my father attempted to ask for directions in his broken Spanish reasoning, “it’s close enough,” I ran in to intersect and placate a developing brawl. With my basic direction skills I was able to ask, receive and even understand the compliment: “Little girl! How well your French is! Such a fine accent! Never listen to your father!” Well, thank you, I still try not to.

My love continued until some evil teachers in high school set me back. It has not stopped my love of the culture, especially the food. I was beyond ecstatic when a (dare I say reasonable) French bistro opened in my area. And even when I was snubbed by the waiter for requesting ketchup with my fries (is it my fault a steak au poîvre comes with no sauce?!) I returned for more. Each time the food got better, I had tried everything on the menu, and pretty soon I was having drinks with one of the chefs. So it made a perfect setting for an intimate birthday party.

It was my birthday and I ate my mussels with pleasure. But as I spied a guest enjoying his Coq au Vin with much gusto, I took to staring until a morsel was offered; pure decadence. The chicken fell right off the bone. The sauce was thick and rich and just calling for crusty bread to act as a sponge. That one little taste was etched in stone.

So with an organic chicken accompanying me home my mind wandered past my youth of lightly breaded chicken, grilled chicken, paused briefly at fried and then rounded the corner to my birthday memory. A bottle of cheap ($3.99) wine was purchased and miscellaneous vegetables were pulled from the refrigerator. Suppose I claim my Coq au Vin surpassed that of my beloved restaurant? With the chicken melting off the bone (while it appears to hold together quite well in the photo) and the sauce begging to be sopped up with great zeal, this is a meal that is calling out to be made.

While at my family’s Seder the other night I mentioned this dish. “Oh no,” my step-mother cringed, “coq au vin just takes too long!” Actually, prepping this dish is simple. Like all braised meat it is the slow cooking that takes patience. And with all braised food, the wait is well worth it.

Coq Au Vin
Makes: 4 servings. Active Time= 25 minutes. Cook Time= 1-½ hours.
* 1 whole chicken, cut into sections (you can ask your butcher to cut it for you)
* 2 carrots, cut into 1-2 inch pieces
* 1 celery stalk, cut into 1-2 inch pieces
* 1 apple (I used a Golden Delicious, but any sweet baking apple would work)
* 1 onion, chopped in ¼ inch discs
* 2 cups red wine
* 2 bay leaves
* 1-2 tsp fresh rosemary
* 1-2 tsp fresh basil (or any other herbs you like)
* fresh pepper/ salt
* 2 Tbl unsalted butter or olive oil

1) In a Dutch oven (or other pot with tight fitting lid) over medium heat, warm the pan and melt the butter. Add carrots, celery, apple and onion. Sautée until onions are limp, about 8 minutes.
2) Add chicken and brown on both sides; 8-10 minutes. Add wine, bay leaves and other herbs.
3) Reduce heat to medium-low, secure lid and allow to simmer for 1-½ hours; or until meat falls off bone.
4) When done, carefully remove chicken and any loose bones from pot; set aside (or place on serving plates). Using a hand-held blender, or in batches with an upright blender, purée the contents of the pot until thick and smooth. Return chicken to pot (or add purée on top of chicken). Garnish with fresh herbs and serve with fresh crusty bread.


In non-food related activities WCB at Eat Stuff brings us the world of cats.
Some cats understand good window manners. Here is Kitty BoJangles at her perch eyeing a few squirrels:

And then there is Whisky, the Terrible Tot. Thinking he can claw his way out of house and home to chase the birds and squirrels:

Braised Swiss Chard Wrapped in Filet of Sole (WCB #41)

As a child I was surprisingly tolerant of vegetables. This is probably what eventually drew me to become a vegetarian for a good six years: Carrots, spinach, radishes, mushrooms, and asparagus, it all tasted so good and earthy. My mother would often have me create the salads, calling me “rabbit” and promptly banishing me from the kitchen because I would start devouring the crisp vegetation before dinner was ready. This vegetable love eventually led me to my own tomato garden (which the deer and squirrels in our backyard ate) and drew me weekly to the farmer’s market and any grocery excursion.

Today I am still fascinated by farmer’s markets and grocery stores. If I have nothing better to do I will wonder over just to walk through, hypnotized by the produce, laid out in beautiful pyramids, or tucked into bins. I only wish I could take it all home. I often will purchase a fruit or vegetable just because it looks beautiful, strange, unloved, or overly loved. Often I have never tasted the item before. I bring it home, behold the power of the internet, and research different ways to eat whatever it is I acquired.

This quasi sense of adventure when it comes to buying produce led me to Swiss chard the other day. The bright red stalks initially drew me in. The veins and deep emerald bushel of leaves won me over. D has this same sense, though he does not like to admit it. It is not for produce, it is for the meats and fish. While I spend my time fondling over the fruits and vegetables, D heads over to the meat and seafood sections spying out whatever looks fresh. Surprisingly, more often than not, our tastes meet midway and we are able to concoct a meal that blends quite nicely.

This was one of those days. While I joined up with D he was having 6 filet of soles wrapped up. We returned home, me with the intent to braise my chard, even with D complaining he has never had it and would not enjoy it, and D still undecided on how to prepare his filets. After some research, on which sites I do not know, D announced we would wrap the chard up in the filet. He had found similar recipes for spinach, and I ensured him it would be easy enough to treat the chard with the same respects.

I braised away, D complained of hunger. Soon enough he was wrapping the chard in blankets of sole, pinning, baking, and we were both enjoying a very succulent meal. The flavors in this dish completed each other perfectly. Chard, with its slightly bitter taste, paired with the milk and bacon of the braise perfectly; a stunning platform for the sole. D announced he felt like we were eating in a 4-star restaurant. With all objectives met, we rubbed our bellies satisfied.

BRAISED SWISS CHARD WRAPPED IN FILET OF SOLE
Serving Size= 2. Active Time= 20 minutes. Inactive time= 30 minutes
* 1 bunch swiss chard (about 6 stalks); slice stems bite-size; tear leaf into more manageable sections
* 2 strips bacon, slice bite-size
* 2 scallions, whites and greens, chopped (one small onion would work too)
* 1 garlic clove, crushed
* 1-½ cups chicken broth
* ½ cup milk or cream
* 4-6 filets of sole (sole is quite thin; depending on hunger prepare more or less)
* juice of 1 lemon
* 2 tsp paprika
* 2 tsp mustard powder
* 2 tsp parsley
* salt/ pepper

1) Preheat the oven to 350F. In a skillet with a cover, over medium heat cook the bacon, scallions, garlic and chopped swiss chard stems until bacon browns, about 8 minutes.
2) Add swiss chard leaves, broth and milk. Cover, turn heat to medium-low; let simmer about 10 minutes, until leaves are limp.
3) While the chard braises, prepare the filets. On a large skillet or baking pan lay out the sole. Pour ½ the lemon juice over the filets, add salt, pepper and 1 tsp of paprika, mustard powder and parsley.
4) Once chard is complete, using tongs or a fork, place a thin layer of chard on top of the sole filets. Wrap tightly, being careful not to tear the fish; pin closed with one or two toothpicks. Arrange rolled up fish in a tight pack on baking dish. Top with remaining lemon juice, paprika, mustard powder, parsley, salt and pepper. Pour any remaining chard or sauce into the pan. Place in middle rack of oven for 20 minutes.


** Please check out my article regarding Umami over on Blog Critics. Soon enough the same piece will be posted to Paper Palate in the WellFed Network (and might make an appearance here as well).

In the non-food world of WCB, Eat Stuff serves up another winner. Below we have the spotlight on the young terror Whiskey. Yes, he may look cute and innocent now, but try moving your toes or rolling over when you are trying to sleep.

Here, we have Whiskey moments before on top of a rug, resting verticle, in the corner (about 6 feet high, you can see the doorframe of a closet). The young Whiskey whisked his way to the top, declared himself king of the world, and then awaited his sister to walk by below and attacked.


Head on over to Lindy Toast for the Something For Nothing wrap up!

Braised Pheasant w/ Sauerkraut

A few years ago, I had an ideal roommate: she was an amazing baker while I was the meat and potatoes of the operation. Together we created some tantalizing meals that impressed all around us. We were an unstoppable duo, especially in the kitchen. She moved out, we move on, and now she lives half a continent away. On a recent visit, she imparted onto me the most precious gift of all: The Art of Eating by M.F.K. Fisher.

It is a hefty volume, almost 800 pages; a collection of Fisher’s best writings on food. But its cover was the most seductive image I had laid eyes on that I eventually cracked it, finishing it in one week’s time. Today I will not indulge the reader in a full review; that is for another time. I will say it is one of those books once picked up is impossible to put down. The writing is so voluptuous is calls to be read aloud to an audience.

With each sitting I grew hungry, not only for more of Fisher’s writing, but physically. Throughout the book, recipes wrapped in Fisher’s memories are found. Before I passed this book on to another friend, I copied a few of those recipes down to satiate my appetite another day. Many seem almost archaic today (in the United States at least)—roasted pigeon-- these are recipes that must be indulged at some point in one’s lifetime.

Today I unfurl one of those copied recipes with more to come. This one if found in the section “How to Cook A Wolf.” First published in 1937, this section is a guide for the housewife on how to scrimp and save in the bowels of wartime, as well as after. How does one continue to live a life of luxury when there is none to be found?

I must suppose pheasants were easier to come by in those days. A young boy could go on a hunt with his father and return with a sack of pheasant to feed the family for a week, nary a penny spent. Today, pheasant is a luxury (at least in New York City). I was determined to create this dish (and if I could not find pheasant, Cornish Hen or something of that sort would have to do). Low and behold today at the Green Market I found Game Dealers: Wild turkeys, chickens, geese, and of course, my dear pheasant! A little on the expensive side ($20 for a good sized bird!) but it was destiny to find and had to be bought. Add to that 1pound of fresh bacon (also from the Green Market) this meal is hardly a hungry wolf—it can now pass as a starving millionaire fare.

BRAISED PHEASANT (OR PARTRIDGE) IN SAUERKRAUT
Serving Size= 4 persons. Active Time= 45 minutes. Inactive time= 2½ - 3 hours.
This is the recipe as it appears in The Art of Eating.
* salt and pepper
* 2 small or 1 large bird (or 1 rabbit)
* bacon slices
* 3 tablespoons butter or good oil
* 1½ pounds sauerkraut
* 1 cup peeled and sliced apples
* 1 cup dry white wine (or half and half with water or vegetable stock)
* 1 tablespoon flour

Rub birds with cut lemon, and salt and pepper them. Wrap with the bacon and tie securely with twine. Heat the fat and brown the birds.
Wash the drained sauerkraut (unless it is very mild, [t]hen just drain it). Place a layer of it with the apple slices in the bottom of a casserole and imbed the birds. Cover with the rest of the kraut and apple, add the liquid, and cover closely. Let simmer very slowly for about 2 hours.
Put the birds on a hot plate, and thicken the kraut with the flour. Make nests in it, and replace the birds in them, ready to serve.


On non-food related musings, here is WCB # 40 over at Eat Stuff. Below we have Whiskey and Kitty BoJangles sitting at the first open window of the year...

Braised Leeks in Cream

It is only recently that I have come to appreciate the subtle, sweet nature of leeks. In soups, they are bold enough on their own, or a perfect cover up for those who detest the onion. Leeks are a fabulous flavor enhancer to seafood dishes (perfect with broiled scallops). They are delicious in an omelet, over a salad, or slightly sautéed in a vegetable purée.

There is written evidence of leeks since the time of the pyramids. The Greeks once dipped leeks in their very precious oils before eating, thinking it did marvels for their singing voice. In present day Europe, the leek is jokingly known as “poor man’s asparagus”. I would have to say the earthy flavor of asparagus is far different than the subdued leek. To this day, the leek is the Welsh national emblem.

Related to the onion and garlic, leeks carry the same health-promoting qualities: reduction of LDL (“bad”) cholesterol while raising HDL (“good”) cholesterol; reduced risk to certain forms of cancer; and high in many vitamins, especially those that stabilize blood sugar levels.

Leeks are best late fall to early spring when they are in season, though they are available all year round. When buying leeks, look for ones on the smaller side. These offer a more sweet and full flavor. They should be firm, with a good portion of white stalk (in most dishes you will only use the white part). If stored in a plastic bag, leeks can last in the refrigerator for just over one week if stored untrimmed and unwashed. Once cooked, leeks will only retain freshness for about two days.

Make sure to wash leeks well. Usually grown in sandy soil, dirt can easily get into the inner rings of the leek. To wash, remove outer leaf and slice in half lengthwise. Under running water, use your fingers to wash between the layers, scrubbing any dirt that may cling.

I have wanted to make this recipe for a while. I go to the grocery, buy leeks, eventually making soup and end up throwing them in. When I had scallops in the house, I was going to braise the leeks, resting the scallops on a fresh, green bed. This would be an excellent pairing and suggest people try it. (Instead I went for horseradish spiked mashed potatoes, which was equally delicious). In this recipe, the cream and Parmesan cheese compliment the sweet leek perfectly, while the bread crumbs toast into a lovely crunch. Perfect standing on its own as accompaniment, this dish is terrific.

BRAISED LEEKS IN CREAM
Serving Size= 2. Prep time= 5 minutes. Cook time= 45 minutes.
* 4 leeks, halved. Trimmed of dark green leaves and washed.
* 2 cups milk or cream (I used milk because I had no cream. Cream would be excellent though)
* 1 cup vegetable stock
* 2 tsp thyme
* ½ cup Parmesan cheese, grated
* ½ cup bread crumbs

1) Preheat oven to 400F. After washing and trimming leeks, assemble halves layers up in a baking dish. Pour in the cream (or milk) and stock, sprinkle thyme over top. Bake uncovered on the center rack for 40 minutes.
2) Remove, sprinkle bread crumbs and Parmesan over the leeks. Return to oven and bake another 5 minutes, until bread crumbs are lightly golden. Remove and serve.

Braised Oxtail w/ Baked Eggs & The Perfect Bloody Mary

*Just Braise has moved. Please visit me at www.justbraise.com!*

As stated earlier, on a recent B&N trip, I “picked up” a few recipes from the book I was perusing. This one struck my eye (even though the picture does it no justice) because it sounded exotic: oxtail and baked eggs. I never thought to bake an egg before, other than a frittata. D being a huge carnivore, I knew he would be down for oxtails. We invited two other meat-lovers over and planned our day.

First, I must admit that when eating certain foods that resemble animals a little too much, contain too many bones, or are a little too gamey, I regress back to my vegetarian days. For six years (much to my mother’s objections and sneaking meat into my food) I was essentially animal-less. I broke down when studying in the meatastic city of Prague and am now a mostly happy meat-eater. Like many others I have met, the word oxtail can give me the meat-willies, but this recipe sounded too good to pass up. So all ye who fear the tail I say go forth!

What is oxtail? And why? Back in the day when oxen actually pulled our wagons cross country and got all yoked up, the oxtail consumed actually was the meat from the tail of oxen. Being thrifty folk and not wanting any part of the animal go to waste, the oxtail was consumed, often in a soup or hearty stew. As oxen have gone out of style and the use of cattle has become widespread, we again refuse to let any meat go to waste. Oxtail as we know it today is the tail meat from cows (of both genders).

Like all things fashionable, there are highs and lows. It is only recently that oxtail has returned to fashion. I have read fewer than twenty years ago, oxtails were so unpopular the meat was practically given away. It was a secret joy for chefs to use oxtail because the cost was so low ($1-2 a pound). Today, though not outrageous, old fans of oxtail shutter in horror as they dish out up to $6 a pound for quality “unwanted” meat. Oxtail seems to be the new “it” meat, recently springing up in restaurants all over town.

The first time I took notice to oxtail I was with D at his favorite feel-good-food joint Soul Spot. Ran by two men from The Gambia, these boys have nailed the southern cooking New Yorkers crave. An easy-to-miss whole-in-the-wall favorite of bus drivers, police, and locals alike, the Spot serves up choice of meat and two sides for an easy $10. I would usually order the chicken: jerk or BBQ, while D would switch up between meatloaf and oxtail both dripping in savory sauces. With trepidation—come on, what’s in name?— I tried the oxtail. I was hooked.

Like short ribs the “oxtail” meat can be a little tough so slow cooking is advised. This is where the braise comes into play, allowing the meat to fall right off the bone and enter the succulence stage. Oxtail tastes like any other “less than ideal” cut of beef, most resembling brisket (although it depends how it is cooked), so it is not to be shied away from. It makes an interesting, exotic sounding, and delicious alternative to the usual purchases, and should definitely be tried.

As a brunch item, this dish reminds me of The Joy of Cooking’s “Hunter’s Breakfast” which consists of about 10 different courses, from quail to ostrich eggs. More closely, it is similar to D’s favorite menu item at Norma’s: The Hudson Valley Duck Confit Hash a Cheval, consisting of a full duck and 4 eggs. D orders this with a huge grin and sops up all the sauce with their fresh baked bread, dribbling juice and laughing at the rest of the patrons pick at their jazzed up eggs (I recommend the Zillion Dollar Lobster Frittata, with “we dare you to expense this” as the price—okay, I’ve never had it, but the Artychoke Benedict is darn good).

This recipe takes a little planning (I marinated the oxtail in wine overnight). If it is made for brunch, remember it needs 2-½ - 3 hours of cook time so prepare it well before guests arrive, or quench the appetite with the perfect Bloody Mary (recipe below). I planned ahead and bought double what I thought 4 people could consume so I would have plenty of leftovers (which is recommended since the cooking process is lengthy). Much to my surprise, the leftovers were few: enough for a smaller brunch the following day. This meal is well worth it and is so hearty it serves as the only necessary meal of the day (we were good and content until about 11pm when we had a small snack of fresh mozzarella and tomatoes).

I know the picture is not fantastic, but this meal is. Anyone that has had it can attest to it. When the egg’s sunshine breaks loose and the juices mix, this dish is divine—just have some good bread on hand for the sauce. A Bloody Mary is a perfect accompaniment to this dish: The tangy horseradish is an ideal palate cleanser. Be a man, enjoy this dish, call the dogs, sound the horns, and go hunting.

BRAISE OXTAIL W/ BAKED EGGS
Serves 5. Prep time= 20 minutes. Cook time= 2-½- 3 hours.
* 4 lbs oxtail
* 1 bottle red wine (I used the inexpensive, but quite tasty $5 Gato Negro)
* 2 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces
* 2 carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
* 1 small onion, cut into quarters
* 1-5 oz can tomato paste
* salt/ pepper
* 1 Tbl dry parsley
* 5 eggs

1) Place the oxtail in a wide bowl with 1 bottle red wine. Marinate at least overnight, up to 2 days. If the wine does not cover all the meat, rotate and flip pieces every so often.
2) Preheat the oven to 400F. Warm an oven-safe pot (dutch oven) over medium-high heat. Remove the oxtail from the wine (save the wine). Dry off the oxtail and rub well with salt and fresh ground pepper. Brown all sides of the meat in the (dry) pot. This can be done in 2 rounds, takes about 3 minutes on all sides. This locks the meat moisture in. Remove and set aside.
3) In the meat juices, sauté the celery, carrots and onion, about 8 minutes until onions begin to soften. Add the tomato paste, reserved wine and parsley; stir to blend evenly. Add the oxtail (liquid should come just to the top, but not covering the oxtail. Add a little water, about 1 cup, if this is not the case) and cover tightly. Bake in middle of the oven for 2-½- 3 hours. Meat is done when it falls off the bone with little effort. Check the braising process once every hour to ensure liquid is still present. Add a little water if too much liquid evaporates (some liquid will cook off, but you want some sauce for the meal).
4) When meat is ready, remove from the oven and de-bone (reserving the bones for a future soup or stew). Push the vegetables through a large sieve (or mash with a potato masher) to create a thick sauce. Return the meat to the pot. Using the back of a large ladle, create 5 divots and crack one egg in each divot. Bake 10 minutes so eggs are just white and still runny.
NOTE: To be served with a Perfect Bloody Mary, recipe below.

THE PERFECT BLOODY MARY
Serves 4. Prep time= 8 minutes. Inactive time= 1 hour.
* 1 liter quality tomato juice, with no additives (I think Looza makes an excellent line of juices and nectars and should definitely be purchased if available.)
* juice of 1 lemon
* juice of 1 lime
* 1 Tbl Worchester Sauce
* 1 Tbl hot sauce
* 5 Tbl quality fresh, plain white horseradish
* 1 Tbl celery seeds
* fresh pepper to taste
* 1 Tbl balsamic vinegar
* 8 ounces vodka
* celery stalk with leaves for garnish (olives or pickled green beans work well too)

1) In a pitcher, mix tomato juice, lemon juice, lime juice, Worcester sauce, hot sauce, horseradish, celery seeds and fresh pepper. Cover and place in refrigerator for 1 hour.
2) When ready to serve, remove from refrigerator and stir well. Pour 2 oz vodka into each glass (4), add tomato mixture (another tsp horseradish is optional). Add celery garnish. Gently pour the balsamic vinegar over the top of the tomato mixture so it floats. This provides an excellent visual and olfactory effect. Once served, mix and enjoy.

NOTE: A good Bloody Mary starts in the juice. If one uses a poor quality juice, the final product will taste off. I have had this happen. Do not attempt it at home. The taste of a dish depends on the quality of the products used.
ON HOT SAUCE: I am by no means a hot sauce expert, but I do like a little flame every once in a while. I have foodie friends from New Orleans that will add Tabasco to everything. I surprised them with some Dragon’s Fire Hot Sauce from Greene’s Gourmet in Vermont. (D and I picked some up during a camping trip.) This boutique sauce is made with ginger root which we were told makes the sauce extra hot because it opens the sinuses giving one full onslaught of the pepper—the Naw’lins boys were speechless.

Bourbon-Pomegranate Molasses Beef Short Ribs w/ Broccoli Rabe

*Just Braise has moved. Please visit me at www.justbraise.com!*

To braise, or not to braise, that is the question. Whether ‘tis nobler in the mind to purchase expensive meat and suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune,-- or to fool your audience with inexpensive meat that melts in the mouth and is pure succulence.

I choose to fool, and with rave reviews.

Braising is the frugal gourmet’s trick on the audience: It turns tough meat tender. This is a process where one can throw everything-but-the-kitchen-sink into the pot, walk away, and return a few hours later to remove spectacular meat with little effort (I have discussed the process and various techniques more in depth in my first post of this New Year. I will also make the promise that more braising will be discussed this year, than last.) For tonight, it is beef short ribs.

As a child, I cannot remember ever eating authentic southern BBQ ribs. Steaks, BBQ chicken, hamburgers, hot dogs—those were all covered. I cannot recall once stepping foot into a BBQ joint until I was in high school. This moment was bliss and I often requested return trips.

My family did eat ribs though. There was only one location we ever consumed ribs: at New China Restaurant. We walked in, summoned by the larger-than-life giggling gilded Buddha that rested above the host stand, and soon sat at our regular table. I always thought we were so special sitting at this corner booth right near the bustling kitchen. Looking back, I am sure three young rowdy children are not a restaurant favorite. Regardless, their ribs were amazing, dripping with a soy-BBQ sauce that my family always had to order at least 2 plates of to satiate all.

But I have aged, and with age I have come to enjoy ribs beyond the comforts of the local Chinese restaurant. I still crave authentic southern BBQ. This is good since D is a southern boy: Tonight we summoned the southern kitchen.

On short ribs:
There are two kinds of beef short ribs. One is the shoulder (or chuck). These pieces are cut into individual rectangular slices, 2 to 3 inches long. They are thick, have layers of fat and connective tissue, and a thick bone running along them. The second kind of short rib is the short plate (underside of the chest). This is typically what you receive in a BBQ restaurant when you ask for “short ribs”. It usually consists of five connected ribs (numbers 6 to 10). This section is meaty but also contains a lot of connective tissue. Both cuts are tough and require long cooking (in this case braising) to soften them up.

When purchased in the supermarket, this cut of meat is a bargain. For tonight’s meal I purchased a package of chuck (loose) short ribs. They were large, meaty and marbled. They arrived in a package of 4, totaling just under $4. The rest of the ingredients are staples I generally have at home so with the broccoli rabe (about $2.50) this meal for two was about $7. I was happy with this math and returned home to braise. (Okay, the bourbon is not a staple, but leftover from a New Year party. This girl loves her hot toddies.)

Other notes on this recipe:
I combined and adapted this recipe from two I found online (one from starchefs, the other from epicurious). The pomegranate molasses can be substituted for regular molasses. I just happen to enjoy the sweeter pomegranate molasses. It is available in Middle Eastern markets (for about $1.50) or is now showing up in many general supermarkets (for about $3.00) in the Mediterranean food section. Whichever molasses you use, make sure to add it at the end of the cooking process. The pomegranate seeds in the braise process are also optional. I had some leftover seeds from a recent heavenly dessert and threw them in (as I said, everything-but-the-kitchen-sink.)

Bourbon-Molasses Beef Short Ribs w/ Broccoli Rabe
Makes 2 servings. Prep time= 20 min. Cook time= 2.5 hours
Bourbon-Molasses Beef Short Ribs
4 short ribs (Find ones with a good fat-meat ratio)
1 Tbl butter
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 jalepeño pepper, chopped (if a little spice is desired)
3 bay leaves
¼ tsp thyme
¼ cup bourbon
1 Tbl tomato paste
1-½ cups water
1 Tbl soy sauce
2 anchovy filets
seeds of ½ a pomegranate (optional)
1/3 cup pomegranate molasses (or regular molasses)
fresh ground pepper

1) Preheat oven to 350F. In an oven safe pot, or dutch oven, melt the butter over medium heat. Cover both sides of the short ribs with an ample amount of pepper and brown the ribs (about 3 minutes each side). In the braise process this initial quick heat process locks the juices inside the meat. Remove the ribs and place on a separate plate.
2) Add the garlic, carrot, celery, onion, jalepeño and anchovies. Sauté for 5 minutes.
3) Add bay leaves, thyme, bourbon, tomato paste, water, soy sauce and (optional) pomegranate seeds. Return ribs to pot, cover tightly and place in oven on center rack. Cook for 2.5 hours.
4) Once removed from the oven the sauce will have thickened and the aroma will be overwhelmingly delicious. Add pomegranate or regular molasses, stir and serve.

Broccoli Rabe
1 bunch broccoli rabe
2 Tbl butter

1) When there is 10 minutes left of the braising process above, warm a medium sized saucepot over medium heat with the butter. Add broccoli rabe, cover tightly and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Stir, cover again, and cook until leaves are wilted (about 4 more minutes). Remove and serve.

Check out this recipe featured on Chef Michele!

Head on over to Lindy Toast for the Something For Nothing wrap up!

Braised Beef in Wine-Vegetable Bouillon w/ Broiled Brussels Sprouts

“Succulence. This is the true goal of braising; it is the aim toward which one strives, from the very beginning, and it is the direction in which all techniques and methods lead.”

I thought it only appropriate that the first meal of the New Year follow the namesake of the blog. Braising is a task all too simple. It is for those who are frugal with time or money when it comes to food and the preparation of. Braising makes an inexpensive cut of meat turn into a succulent $30 a pound filet that melts in the mouth. It also (in my case) turns an un-quaffable bottle of wine, into a mouth-watering gravy. Most anything can be braised: vegetables, fish, chicken, and meat. Sauce options are limitless as well: From a sweet prune and chestnut gravy to a savory vegetable and wine buillon-- or even a meat stew. This is what makes braising a pure joy.

Braising is at its utmost ease when little shopping is done towards the meal— just clean out the refrigerator and amaze your critics to one of the tastiest meals known. It is a dish that truly can be the odds-and-ends-everything-but-the-kitchen-sink. Your final dish will taste amazing. Braising is best done when turning a fair piece of meat into a tender cut. An expensive piece of meat, I believe, should be cooked quick-- it will naturally melt in the mouth. For a recipe option, see Red Wine Infused Filet Mignon.

To braise a piece of food, simply add 1-2 Tbl of butter or oil to a fry pan. Allow pan to get hot. You may sprinkle salt and pepper on each side of your food, or a breadcrumb or otherwise coating, this is optional. Add the food, cooking on high heat 3-5 minutes each side, until lightly browned. This browning technique traps the juices (especially of meats) inside. Add a sauce: tomato, wine, or water and add fruits, vegetables, or nuts. The sauce need not cover the piece of meat, but as it evaporates you may need to add more. Bring the contents to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover and continue cooking on low heat for 2-3 hours. The longer you are able to leave the food alone, the more succulent it will become: Absorbing the juices and flavors of everything you have put into the pan. (Vegetables will cook for a shorter time, about 1 hour.)

To usher in the New Year, I braised a cheap cut of chuck ($2.50 a pound) in un-drinkable wine with assorted vegetables. The result truly was succulent. The meat fell right off the bone and all too quickly into the stomach. The meal was accompanied with broiled Brussels sprouts, covered simply with olive oil, salt and pepper. As M.F.K. Fisher notes in The Art of Eating, it is unnecessary to have each of your meals a complete protein-vegetable-starch affair. Enjoy a large salad for lunch and a meat and potato dinner. Or, oatmeal for breakfast, and a late lunch of meat and vegetables. Eating this way eases the nerves and clean up of any meal.

BRAISED BEEF IN A WINE-VEGETABLE BOUILLON
Serves 3. Prep time= 15 min. Cook time= 3 hours
2 lbs meat (I used a cheap cut of chuck)
2 Tbl butter
2 cloves garlic
10 white button mushrooms, sliced
1 medium onion, chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
2 bay leaves
1 tsp dried rosemary
1 Tbl Worchester sauce
1-½ cups dry red wine (a cheap wine works well)

1) Heat a large skillet on medium-high heat. Melt the butter and sprinkle salt and fresh pepper on the meat. Add garlic. (You may cut the meat into serving size pieces.) Place meat on pan and brown both sides, about 2-3 minutes per side.
2) Add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and allow to slowly stew 2-3 hours. To test doneness of meat, poke with a wooden spoon. Meat should be soft and tender.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Serves 3. Cook + Prep time= 10 min
1 handful Brussels sprouts
2 Tbl olive oil
salt/ pepper to taste

1) When just about ready to sit for the meal, wash and cut Brussels sprouts in half. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place in an oven-safe tin and broil 4 minutes. Remove from heat, flip sprouts, broil another 4 minutes. Brussels sprouts should be soft and buttery looking with a few blackened leaves.

Sweet Sauerkraut

*Just Braise has moved. Please visit me at www.justbraise.com!*

This is really a "sweet"kraut and not sauer- or "sour"kraut because in the end, that is what it is: sweet. It is not the traditional sauerkraut that many think of-- the kind that comes piled high on hot dogs, a classic Chicago topping-- or on the side of a plate at a BBQ. This is Sweet Latvian Sauerkraut.

This is a 'kraut that is spiked with brown sugar and slow cooked with fruit and vegetables so the natural sugars escape in the cooking. It is the kind of 'kraut that even if the bag or jar you extrude it from states "ready-to-eat" or “warm and serve” you dare not sit and eat it until it has been subjected to your love for a good few hours.

This is the kind of 'kraut that stinks up your whole house for days (and eventually your mother will move the cooking process to a portable stovetop in the garage, leaving you craving the smell that usually accompanies the dish). When you are younger still, you will think this dish to be a little too bitter, but you know you must love it, and will always force a little down your throat because it is the dish that your grandmother makes for every family meal, no matter the season. It is a dish that is soul warming, and smells like home. It is the dish your boyfriend will take to work, and when reheated, he will have people salivating around him, begging for a bite, praying for the recipe.

The recipe below is made with kielbasa. It is also a sweet accompaniment to my grandma’s perfect Latvian Pancake. It can be eaten on hotdogs, or hamburgers (in place of carmelized onions possibly). Or, in the preferred method of many in my family: slathered on top of real, good, Latvian bread (or the next best substitute). It is also good with a cold beer.

SWEET LATVIAN SAUERKRAUT
Serves 4. Prep time= 30 min. Cook time= at least 2 hours.
1- 32 oz bag sauerkraut (or equivalent jar)
2 medium-sized carrots, shredded
1 apple or pear (sweet and juicy apple or slightly sour: from fuji to grannysmith), chopped
1 medium white onion, chopped
3 Tbl brown sugar
1 Tbl paprika
½ cup apple cider, apple juice, or beer
1 package (2 12-inch) kielbasa (I used turkey kielbasa for this one)

1) Turn on the broiler and begin to warm a saucepot on the stovetop, medium heat.
2) Put the kielbasa on a pan with juices. Slice down the center. Broil about 10 min or until the top opens, juices bubble, and the skin darkens.
3) While kielbasa is cooking, add 1 Tbl butter to the saucepot. Add onions and sauté 5 min. Add carrots and apple. Sauté 10 min. (Remove kielbasa from oven while this is warming.) Add sauerkraut, brown sugar, paprika. Stir well.
4) Cut kielbasa into bite-sized pieces. Add to pot, stir. Turn heat to medium-low, leave slightly uncovered, allow to cook at least 2 hours. The longer you can stand, the better, allowing the aroma fill the home. Stir periodically. Serve with true hearty and flavorful rye or pumperknickle bread, preferably from Latvia, buttered and toasted.
Note: If you will be cooking this more than two hours, check at least 1 time every half hour. Add more juice if 'kraut appears too dry.
NOTE: I have received many an angry phone call from uncles and grandma: "Where is the caraway???" Well, I don't really like caraway in my sauerkraut. But you may add 1-1/2-2 Tbl to your dish.

BBQ Pork Short Ribs w/ Green Beans & Sweet Potato Fries

I love ribs. Actually, I love almost any typically southern cooking. When I was younger, I can only remember having ribs when we went to our family’s favorite restaurant, New China. As I grew older, I realized how delicious BBQ ribs could be in other (non-Chinese appetizer) forms. When my mother comes to NY for a visit, I always make sure to lead her to Blue Smoke, a great rib joint, but a little expensive for my everyday budget. When I first started dating D, he too felt the southern pull, more so than I, being from the south himself. At the time, he lived across the street from Soul Spot in Brooklyn. If you live nearby I highly suggest a visit. Their oxtail falls right off the bone and their jerk chicken is spicy and delicious—and even better, their portions are gluttonous for the price. Interestingly enough, the owners are from The Gambia. Who would have thought these men could nail the craving that many of us have for southern home cooking? Today, I was not craving BBQ ribs until I could smell them cooking…

Sometimes I have to bribe D to come to the store with me. This is when I know I want to buy too many things I can carry home alone. Usually, it’s something along the lines of, “If you come to the store, I’ll let you pick out some meat”. If I’m left to my own pickings, I’ll go for a quick and hearty beet salad-- and I know D cannot resist picking through whatever looks fresh in the meat department. Today it was pork short ribs. We have no grill and cooked them in the oven, doing a quick par-boil according to the Joy of Cooking. I finished off the meal with some steamed green beans and baked sweet potato fries. Our friend DR was over. Even though he had his own pork chops to go home to, he too could not resist trying some ribs (and our cats could not keep off the table).

PORK SHORT RIBS W/ GREEN BEANS & SWEET POTATO FRIES
Serves 2. Prep + Cook time= 1 hr 30 min
2 lb pork short ribs
4 Tbl BBQ sauce
2 sweet potatoes
handful of green beans

1) Preheat oven to 450F. On the stovetop, in a large pot, boil water. Add ribs to water and boil 2-3 min. Remove and place in baking dish. Place on middle rack in the oven for 15 min.
2) After 15 min, remove from oven, apply BBQ sauce and reduce heat to 350F. Bake for 1 hour more, basting frequently.
3) While the ribs are cooking, prepare sweet potato french fries according to previous recipe here(they require 30 min cook time and can be cooked with the pork on the next lower rack in the oven).
4) When 5 min remain on the baking, prepare green beans: In a medium saucepan, place 4 Tbl water over medium heat on the stovetop. Snip off ends and wash green beans. Add beans to pan and allow to simmer about 3 min. Remove from heat and drain any remaining water. Add a small tab of butter and mix into the beans until melted. Dish onto plates along with finished potatoes and ribs.

Just Braise

Many of the food names I desired have long been snatched up-- and funny enough, many were "unavailable", yet I saw no blog at the site. So here it is: Braise. But why "Braise" out of all the other cooking words out there? Well, for one, braise is fun to say. Would you like it braised, baked or grilled? What does it mean anyway? Do you think people that say it know? Or do they say it to sound like a food snob? Or because it's French? Or plain fun to say? Let's say this is titled after someone I know. Someone who was ordering a salmon sandwich over the phone and this was the basic conversation I overheard:

"Hello, I would like to place an order."
......
"Delivery. Uh huh...[address provided]..."
.......
"The Salmon Sandwich, please."
......
"Oh, well... just braised, of course."

The phone was hung up and when I could stop laughing I turned to C and asked, "Do you know what braised means?" The answer: "I don't know, my mom makes it that way"

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So with this food blog I do not attempt to pass along esoteric food knowledge, difficult-to-prepare, or extremely lengthy food preparations (there may be the odd one or two). For the most part, I like to be able to pronounce what I am making (and assume you, dear reader, do as well). I like to whip something up, without spending all day in the kitchen (though some items will cook for a good part of the day in the kitchen). From time to time, I like to impress my friends with delicious dishes that they believe took forever to make and I can say, "Oh, it was nothing really. You are worth it." So with that, I leave the food to you...


Fast Basic Braise: Brown your meat, poultry or fish in hot fat. Add some tasty extra to the pot (chopped tomato, wine, veggie juice), lower heat and cover. Cook until meat is good and tender, complete with a delicious sauce accompaniment.